Visiting Porto Alegre

You do not come here for a beach. You come for the Guaíba sunset, the Mercado Público, a churrasco that takes itself seriously, and a city that still has bookshops.

A short list that is enough

• Orla do Guaíba at golden hour. Gasômetro. Sit. Do not rush.
• Mercado Público: eat, do not just photograph. Closed on Sundays.
• Redenção (Parque Farroupilha) on Sunday — the Brique da Redenção flea market runs under the trees.
• Casa de Cultura Mário Quintana: the old Hotel Majestic turned art space, free, a good rainy-day stop.
• Parcão and a wander through Moinhos.
• Iberê Camargo: the building, the collection, the river under it.
• Cidade Baixa at night. One bar, then another, then stop.
• Santander Cultural / whatever is on that week.

Day trips

The Serra Gaúcha (Gramado, Canela, Vale dos Vinhedos) is about two hours by car. It is also everyone else’s classic. Go during the week. Torres and the north coast in summer. Cambará / Aparados if you want canyons, not chocolate shops.

When

March–May and September–November are the humane months. Summer is hot and thundery. Winter is wet and grey and still worth it if you like empty parks and cheese.

Carnival is milder than Rio. 20 September is louder than you expect.

Sleep

Stay in Cidade Baixa, Independência, Moinhos, or Menino Deus so you are not spending the visit in Ubers. The airport hotels are for delayed flights, not holidays.